Plants of the onion family have spent millions of years
evolving a cocktail of sulphur-based compounds designed to make them
unpalatable to predators. These compounds, when released into the air, react
with water to form a weak solution of sulphuric acid, hence their eyewatering
reputation. Imagine their disappointment, then, when humans decided that this
pungency was a desirable characteristic rather than a deterrent.
Since so many members of the genus Allium share this
distinctive flavour and, as members of the Lily family, have attractive
flowers, they have become popular garden plants both as vegetables and as
ornamentals. The Chive is one of the
most familiar and is long established in cultivation; often said to have been
introduced by the Romans, it is almost certainly native to parts of western and
northern Britain, where it grows on limestone rocks and cliff faces.
There are several other species of wild onion, some native
and some certainly introduced, but the majority are relatively scarce or downright
rare, such as the Round-headed Leek found only on the rocks of the Avon Gorge.
But one member of this distinctive family is both widespread and very obvious
in the landscape.
Wild garlic - Allium
ursinum - differs from its cousins in having a broad oval leaf, but one
sniff is all that is needed to confirm its family affinities. Known variously
as Ramsons, Devil’s Posy, Stinking Nanny and Gipsy’s Gibbles, this plant of
damp woods and stream banks will, when happy, carpet huge areas with its fresh
green leaves and star-like white flowers. The scent is so pungent that large
colonies are almost always smelled before they are seen, but the flavour of the
leaves is surprisingly mild and they have become a fashionable addition to
salads and pasta sauces in up-market restaurants.
Sufficiently different to have been consigned to its own
genus, Nectaroscordum siculum is an
elegant architectural plant with nodding, bell-like flowers in shades of pink
and gold. The foliage has a less pleasant smell than many of the onions, but
the flowers have a honey scent and the abundant nectar they produce makes them
very popular with bees.

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